Najera to Santa Domingo de la Calzada to Grañón – Days 12 & 13

It’s a total of 28km between Najera and Grañón. After Granon we cross the border into the Castile Leon region, from Rioja.

We leave our hotel after breakfast, which we eat together with a couple from France. They don’t speak English at all and John throws himself into the conversation, all his French from school, coming to good use. They’ve walked the France part of the Camino starting in Le Puy and recommended it highly. This year they started in SJPDP and they plan to walk to Burgos. They will come back next year to walk another stretch.

We set out for Santa Domingo and it’s already warm (not Delhi warm, but early 20s C) with the sun out. There’s no breeze at all. The paths through the fields are straight, without a tree in sight.

The style of architecture at Najera

We stop at Azofra (6k) and then at Ciruena (a further 10.5k). Ciruena is more like a ghost town, a golf resort with almost no one there. The golf club restaurant is open to peregrinos.

The last 5k to Santa Domingo is quite a challenge. It is way past noon and the sun beats down on us.

We drag ourselves to our Albergue, very exhausted and dehydrated.

Helping myself to some water from the water bladder of a pilgrim cyclist at the plaza. Water taps along the way, can be very creative!

We go to bed, feeling jaded. A dinner of spaghetti bolognese does little to perk us up!

The next morning, we wake up still feeling tired. We decided to do a short walk to the next town Grañón (7k) and rest there. It was a good decision and fortunately for us, the owner of our Casa Rural Mirabel was willing to let us in at 11am.

We reach Grañón by 9am and find a breakfast place. It’s nice to see familiar faces here, especially the singing family – the Hollands! They invite us for a meal at Burgos where they plan to be on Sunday. We promise to stay in touch and hopefully will see them there! They re-start their walk, while we hang out at the plaza till 11am.

The private room is in an apartment with a kitchen and washing machine. I head out to the one bakery in the village (6 doors away from our apartment) to buy some eggs and freshly baked croissants and cinnamon biscuits. We eat boiled eggs for lunch. Laundry done and clothes on the line, we go to bed for a long long nap.

We’re up at 6.30pm and head out to get some dinner. We meet our friends Linda and her husband – the lovely German couple, relaxing in the plaza.

Back at the apartment, we meet Sam from Tasmania, who is walking with his father who has a dementia that affects his sight. Dad has walked the Camino Frances once before. This time the walk has an added challenge!

One thought on “Najera to Santa Domingo de la Calzada to Grañón – Days 12 & 13

  1. Congrats on completing over 200km on the Camino Frances! Glad that you are pacing yourselves and taking a short breaks whenever you need it. Could not have been easy slogging through the hot midday sun.

    Interesting hearing about the challenges taken on by other travelers on this pilgrimage.

    Liked by 1 person

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